Eating and drinking in Eureka Springs
Maybe you know the old stereotype. The one that says Eureka Springs is full of bohemians.
A stereotype, yes—but perhaps there’s some truth to it. Merriam-Webster defines bohemian as “a person (such as a writer or artist) living an unconventional life usually in a colony with others.”
Which seems about right to me. At least two generations of free spirits have settled in this mountain-cradled municipality, located an hour east of the Northwest Arkansas metro.
The winding roads of Eureka are dotted with Victorian structures of different colors. People were originally drawn here by the sixty-two springs that emerge from the hillsides. Visitors came to “take the waters,” believing in their mystical healing powers. Hotels and bath houses were built for the arriving crowds.
In later years, artists, musicians, and restaurateurs came to create. Eureka grew diverse in the process. It was—and still is—an oasis for freethinkers. “Love thy neighbor” is not just a saying in Eureka. It is a day-to-day calling. And it’s one reason why a thriving LGBTQ community calls the place home.
I visited Eureka Springs on a snowy day in late February. To be clear, I was invited by the business owners to whom I paid a visit. They provided food, beer, and lodging in exchange for my trip notes, which you are now reading.
With disclaimer out of the way, enjoy my report.
Three Bird Cafe
Traffic in Eureka Springs is usually bumper-to-bumper on the weekends. But not on this particular Saturday. Snow still covered the ground following a recent winter storm, and a few slick spots remained on roadways and parking lots. Drivers crept at a slow pace. I did the same as I looked for my first stop of the day.
Three Bird Cafe is located at 3062 E. Van Buren and is owned and operated by Jennifer and Rayna McDermott. The couple has been together for over twenty years. They relocated to Eureka from Memphis to open Three Bird. They created a cozy place for their customers.
My wife joined me at Three Bird for lunch. It was the middle of Mardi Gras season, which meant a special menu was in play. As we pondered the options, I asked our server a question: “What do people love to eat here?”
“The Cajun deviled eggs,” she said without hesitation.
Four half-eggs arrived perfectly nestled on a wooden dish, sprinkled with Cajun seasoning and adorned with sliced okra. I don’t know if they are a regular menu item, but if they’re not, they should be. I’m thankful my wife has a much smaller appetite than I do because I ate three of the four. They were divine.
Next came the Mojo Pork Cubano sandwich. The meat was marinated in local beer, and the sandwich was pressed to perfection. The portion was enough to feed two people, but still I ate it all. My wife enjoyed a BLT that featured some of the loveliest avocado slices I’ve ever seen. Her sandwich was equally big. She could only finish half.
A side of potato salad and a cup of green hatch chili (also made with local beer) left me in a stuffed but satisfied state, unable to partake in dessert. Fortunately, a bread pudding made for Mardi Gras was packed for takeaway. It came with a boozy bourbon sauce, which served as a delightful midnight snack and nightcap.
The McDermotts are friendly people, and their breakfast and lunch menus have lots of options. They have a whole-food approach to cooking that incorporates as many local ingredients as possible. Their baked goods, I’m told, are to die for.
Just make sure you’re hungry when you visit Three Bird. They don’t mess around with the portions.
Gotahold Brewing
U.S. Highway 62—otherwise known as Van Buren Street—is the main mountaintop artery through Eureka Springs. We headed west following our delicious lunch. It was a mere ten minutes of twists and turns before we reached our next stop.
Gotahold Brewing is located at 409 W. Van Buren. It’s owned and operated by Dave and Wendy Reese Hartmann. They opened their small brewery in July 2020, and have been on a steady rise ever since.
Dave is the brewmaster. He is a classically trained brewer who gained experience making beer on big brewhouses back east. At Gotahold he produces a wide range of beer, though his lagers, IPAs, and sour beers stand out.
During our visit the taproom was lively despite the cold and icy weather. Couples, families, and groups of friends huddled around tables and bantered playfully back and forth. On summer days the crowd spills out back, where a shaded beer garden provides outdoor refuge. However, on this late winter day the taproom provided sanctuary from the icy weather. My wife and I were happy to be there.
I ordered a Benison Country Lager and marveled at the clarity of the beer in my glass. Tiny bubbles created a plume bursting from the bottom of the glass to the beer’s surface. Lagers provide no place to hide flaws made by the brewer. No flaws were detected in this fine example of the style.
My wife is a hophead so she ordered an IPA. She couldn’t stop talking about how good it was. I sampled hers and I agreed. It was hoppy, but not too hoppy. Malty, but not too malty. Like many of the beers at Gotahold, it struck a perfect balance that left me wanting more.
I went back to the bar, thinking I would order an IPA.
The knowledgeable barkeeper suggested I try the recently tapped Eureka Rouge—a Flanders-style red she promised would pack an acidic punch.
Eureka Rouge was fruity and effervescent, similar to the famous Belgian beer Rodenbach. I was thankful for the recommendation.
Gotahold is a welcome addition to the Arkansas beer scene. The Hartmanns have built a place for all people to gather, regardless of race, religion, gender, or politics. It fits perfectly with the spirit of Eureka Springs.
Rogue’s Manor
Downtown Eureka Springs is what usually comes to mind when thinking of the historic town. It’s where the Victorian buildings were built, the hillsides are steep, and the streets are extra curvy. Head down there and you’ll find several places to eat and drink, including our dinner destination.
Located at 124 Spring Street, Rogue’s Manor at Sweet Spring, occupies an old building that dates back to the 1870s. The history of the place provides a romantic backdrop for a unique and upscale dining experience. But don’t worry. Pretention doesn’t exist at Rogue’s Manor. I’m pretty sure jeans and flannel would be as welcome as someone sporting more sophisticated attire.
We were greeted by a friendly hostess and quickly seated. There were several other rooms filled with people enjoying their meals. Our dining room was medium in size with wood-paneled walls and ornate fixtures, all buzzing with the warm patina of time. It felt like eating in the parlor of a well-to-do 19th century family.
The menu features steaks, fish, and pasta. If you’re in Eureka Springs and in the mood for oysters, this is the place for you. I opted for the pork tenderloin, which was cooked to perfection and served with an amazing apple relish. Woe is the person who hasn’t experienced the marriage between pomme and pork. I ate until there was no more on my plate.
As good as the food was, the most memorable part of our Rogue’s Manor experience was our server Rick. I’ve eaten in thousands of restaurants in hundreds of cities throughout the world. Bar none, Rick was the most capable and gracious host I’ve ever encountered. His frank style and dry wit were welcome. He’s the kind of server you call upon—not because you need more tea or another napkin—but because you want him to make chitchat with you.
Kudos to Rogue’s Manor owner Terry Blanton for creating a space that has a vintage feel, high quality food, and best-in-class staff.
Pedals & Pints Cottage
After dinner we drove the short distance to our night’s lodging. Pedals & Pints Cottage is located at 407 W. Van Buren, just a few feet in front of Gotahold Brewing.
The two-bedroom, one-bath cottage was renovated before hitting the rental market, with fresh paint and modern updates that make it a comfortable place to crash. It’s also conveniently located, less than ten minutes away from everything Eureka Springs has to offer.
A hot tub on the back deck is a nice feature, though my late-night soak was hampered by the chilly air and my tired eyes. The cottage’s best amenity might be its proximity to Gotahold. I walked the short distance to chat with the employees and pick up a four-pack of Benison Country Lager before I turned in. It’s nice to have world-class beer so near.
After finishing off the boozy bread pudding from Three Bird Café, I drifted off to sleep with sweet dreams of Eureka floating through my head.
Just Bee Coffee Bar
Proximity paid off again when I woke. After a yawn and a stretch, I bundled up and walked the same frozen path I traveled the night before. This time for coffee instead of beer.
Just Bee Coffee Bar operates inside Gotahold Brewing. It serves beans roasted by nuJava Coffee Company. The roasting equipment is visible from the counter where orders are placed.
Owner Belén Arriola purchased the business nearly two years ago. “I want my coffee to be the fuel that helps invigorate your thinking processes and creativity,” she wrote on the nuJava website. “When I roast coffee, I’m thinking about the makers, creatives, farmers, artists, carpenters, activists, teachers, and outdoor enthusiasts.”
Arriola was the only one inside Just Bee when I arrived shortly after opening hour. She was busy preparing for the day ahead, but not too busy to make conversation with me. I told a couple of jokes, at which she politely laughed. I’m not sure my humor warranted the giggle, but she gave me the benefit of the doubt. Then she made me a dirty chai latte that was no laughing matter. It was seriously good.
Coffee and beer, uppers and downers. It makes sense to have both offered in the same place. It’s an around the clock approach, meeting people where they are at any given time of the day.
B-Side Café
Unfortunately, the sun failed to penetrate the deep ravines of downtown Eureka Springs. The havoc wrought by the overnight refreezing of roadway ice and snow meant many businesses were late opening on Sunday, or didn’t open at all. My intended lunch spot was enveloped in ice and it was time for me to go home. I would have to come back on a different day if I wanted to make my last stop.
And go back I did, on a sunny April day nearly two months after my initial visit. By then snowstorms were a distant memory. Spring was in the air and everything was turning fluorescent green. There was a new light cast on Eureka Springs, and what it revealed was lovely.
B-Side Café is located at 121 Spring Street, tucked inside Mojo’s Records. It was hopping when I arrived. Several people flipped through crates of records, and several more lined up at the counter to place lunch orders.
The menu was impressive, featuring soups, sandwiches, and several unique offerings I haven’t seen anywhere else.
I ordered the Sweata’ Weatha’—a bowl of cheddar grits, slow-roasted carnitas, pickled onion, cilantro, and avocado crema.
Even though it was barely past the noon hour, I couldn’t resist getting a Gotahold Benison Country Lager in tallboy form. There were other Arkansas-made beers available in cans.
I carried my lunch to the back deck, which overlooks a deep a gorge. The lush green emerging from the hillside was almost blinding in its newborn state. Water trickled from several sources, collecting into a single stream before cascading a hundred feet beneath my feet. It was a peaceful scene, and I was glad to be there.
Sunshine beat against my cheeks while Parliament-Funkadelic played through speakers hanging overhead. I dug into the bowl of grits and pork and wondered why it took so long to discover B-Side. Owners Blaire Devome and Morgan Haney have created a hillside oasis, replete with tasty treats and musical gems.
Whether you are there to browse the wide-ranging inventory of records or enjoy some brunch, B-Side Café is worth the visit.
Final Thoughts
In a conventional world, Eureka is unconventional. It’s where artists go to create. It’s where thinkers go to think. And for those craving something delicious, it’s where eaters go to eat.
If you’re thinking of visiting Eureka, go ahead and make your plans. Just keep a few things in mind before visiting:
Come as you are, because you will be accepted. Come with an empty stomach, because you will be fed well. And come ready to be impressed, because Eureka is freakin’ awesome.
With that in mind, enjoy your visit to Erueka Springs. I enjoyed mine, and I can’t wait to go back.
